dimanche 10 août 2008

"There's No Crying in Pastry"

Hello family and friends!

Oh Christmas-time! A time for unselfishly sharing, giving and loving others… apparently not for this “Little Rude Girl.” Mom had dolloped a mound of fresh whipped cream atop the spiced pie and told me to wait for the lavish dessert… everyone would enjoy the delicacy together. Oooh, I wonder what’s coming next. The thirty-eight inch counter tops were no match for my tiny three year-old body. However, where there’s a will, there’s a way! As my family gathered in the family room in order to exchange laughs and cheer, I, in my tricksy-hobbit-like-state, creeped into the shadows and into the kitchen in order to sneak the cherished pumpkin pie! Oh, such wisdom and skill to successfully break away from the Baumert clan. Upon entering the kitchen, my eyes grew large after viewing the mound of dessert. After scurrying over to the counter, I mustered up as much strength as my little body could handle, stretched my hands over my head, stood on tippy-toes, and success!! I reached the plate! However, how long could I possibly stand in this awkward position? (although I did fall asleep in the splits once… another story). As I began to quiver and tremble, I slowly slid the plate from the counter. Tip, tip, tip, bull’s eye. Right onto my face, floor and feet. Overcome with grief, I began to wail. My family came running as they believed that I was injured. Caught! As they laughed harder and harder, I became more and more furious and my crushed sobs grew incessantly louder. I was caught, embarrassed, and my delicious treat was ruined. Serves me right! Definitely deserved that one!

Hotel de Crillon. I think I’m in love. Seriously, I absolutely adore my new stage in pastry. During the month of August, the majority of Parisians vacate the city and travel to the south of France to bask in the glorious sunshine and to enjoy and savor the warm summer nights. A plethora of Parisian shops, boutiques and prestigious restaurants close their doors during August in order to rejuvenate for the upcoming year. Since the Crillon gastronomy restaurant “Les Ambassadeurs” is closed this time, there is no pastry service during the day. However, each day I work with my chefs to make the various “tea time” desserts.

I shall describe one such dessert in detail: the Forêt-Noire. Chocolate spheres are first made by using plastic molds. The result is a hollow chocolate ball which has a diameter of about two inches. I then cut tiny circles from a chocolate genoise cake and drop the circles into a syrup of sugar, water and rum (yarr!) After making a cream of mascarpone cheese, liquid cream, powdered sugar and vanilla, I fill the chocolate balls with a cherry colis, imbibed chocolate genoise and cream mixture. Once filled, I turn the balls over and blow a ruby red glitter dust on the top surface. I think my fellow chefs enjoy seeing my face overcome with elation upon using the glitter (Honestly though, I believe that they prefer when I make this dessert because sometimes the glitter rebounds off the surface and lands on my face, as opposed to theirs… not too masculine. And bonus, as I do not have to reapply glittering makeup after lunch… ahh, it’s the little things in life!) After the celebration of glitter dust settles, I place each ball on a larger circle of chocolate genoise cake which rests on a small golden circular platter. Around the bottom of the sphere, I use a pastry bag with the mascarpone cream mixtures and pipe small balls to garnish the chocolate sphere. I then take a torch and heat a metal spatula. Carefully placing the tip of the spatula on the top of the chocolate sphere, a small line is melted away in order to place a tiny “C” made from chocolate (we drizzle chocolate over poles in order to make curled pieces which resemble the letter “C”). Crowning the “C” is a small piece of silver paper (edible). And voila. That is one dessert. One. The intricacies and details of each step are unbelievable! We also make truffles filled with hazelnut ganache which are placed on small chocolate cakes, raspberry tarts, chocolate ice cream cakes enrobed with liquid chocolate, no-bake cheesecake domes filled with apriot genoise cake, madelines, macaroons (not the coconut type which we are familiar with States-side, but I will describe the Parisian macaroons later), fruit plates, raspberry gazpachos, pastry creams, crème legere, crème anglaise, and a plethora of other delicacies!

My fellow chefs laugh whenever I make the pastry cream. Enormous amounts of milk (between three and six liters) are used. After boiling the milk and combining with the sugar and eggs, the mixture must be whisked quickly to prevent the eggs from coagulating and making a nice breakfast of scrambled eggs (just add some ketchup and you’re good to go). The French use the term “énergiquement” to describe the manner in which to whisk the cream (translated to “energetically” – so I always whisk with bright eyes and a big smile…). Sometimes my fellow chefs cheer when I turn the large pan over and they help scrap the cream from the pan. They even commented that my strength was attributed to the years of swimming (wow, it seems like an entire life-time ago!)

I adore my fellow chefs in both the pastry and cuisine kitchens. “KitchenS?” you might ask. Recently, I was given the opportunity to work in the cuisine kitchen in order to learn and work more (like a little sponge, soaking up as much as possible). Thus, after completing my work in pastry for the day, I enthusiastically bound over to the cuisine kitchen and begin my “second stage.” I told you that I love it! I am thrilled and blessed beyond belief in order to learn more! (I would even go to work on my weekends in order to incorporate more cuisine). I love the camaraderie; not only in the kitchen, but between the entire Crillon staff. I truly feel a part of the team and I love working hard (and representing America!) As I run (literally) from one station to the next, I always have a big smile and well, glitter (whoa, there’s a big surprise!) The employees are incredibly hard working and positive. My sous-chef, as well as others, skip lunch as they are constantly working without breaks. I look to each of them with the utmost respect. Even when they are exhausted, they execute their professions with perfection.

Although this was a shorter blog, I will send another update with more detail soon! In the meanwhile, I am thankful beyond words that I am essentially able to do another two stages (pastry and cuisine). It is a blessing which I will never forget! Where there’s a will, there’s a way… and I’m on my way :)

All my love from Paris,

SB =)